A third annual review of 67 Pall Mall

67 Pall Mall upstairs bar.JPG

Since it opened in December 2015, 67 Pall Mall has become a regular London haunt (my usual spot at the upstairs bar is pictured above), and I have got into the habit of reviewing it each December (see here for the 2017 report, and here for the 2016 version.)

This year, the club has opened an additional private dining room (the Marlborough Room), and the rest of the club has continued operating a large events space in the basement, a formal dining room on the ground floor, and the more casual club room upstairs.

For me, it continues to be an indispensible destination, both as a daytime meeting and work space, and an evening eating and drinking venue. This year, I have visited around 35-40 times at a total spend of approximately £2,000 (which includes the £750 annual fee). I’ve dined there slightly less often, but have started increasing my wine spend, which is why I spent the same as last year for a larger number of visits.

Talking of the wine, this remains a star attraction at 67PM, below are some of the highlights I’ve enjoyed from their list this year - and you can check out their wine list yourselves, both for the upstairs clubroom and the members’ lounge downstairs.

  • Tardieu-Laurent, Blanc 2008 Hermitage £14/125 ml - lovely maturity, still fresh despite low acid

  • Trimbach, Clos St Hune Riesling 1990 Alsace £13.50/25 ml - excellent oily fullness

  • Dom de la Taille aux Loups, Rémus 2015 Montlouis £7/125 ml - exemplary waxy Loire Chenin - their Vénise Vin de France at £40/bottle was excellent too

  • Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon 2011 Hunter Valley £8/125 ml - superb value for such a unique style; the 2012 was equally good at the same price

  • J L Chave Sélection, Farconnet 2012 Hermitage £7.50/125 ml - Hermitage for less than £10 a glass, from the best producer in the appellation, albeit from bought-in fruit.

  • Clonakilla Shiraz/Viognier 2008 Canberra £9.40/50 ml - this was very slightly oxidative, but still showed all the pepper, meat and spice of great Syrah

  • Barros Colheita 1978 port £7.20/25 ml - my birth vintage, in peak condition

  • Argyros, Vinsanto 2010 Santorini £12/125 ml - heart-breakingly good sweet Assyrtiko

Furthermore, corkage remains a fixed £20 all year round, and it’s also worth mentioning that the food keeps getting better, in my experience. There is also an exhaustive diary of social events, from live music to BYO dinners to formal tastings.

Is it good value? At £50 to £60 per visit, I would say so, especially considering the quality of wine and food I am getting, as well as the usefulness of the club both in terms of location and as a place I can spend several hours working during the day.

The staff, ambience and wine selection are all outstanding - and I’m delighted to hear that there are plans afoot to open a second site in a country which is going to have huge significance for me next year. In the meantime, 67 Pall Mall remains an essential part of the fabric of the London wine world.

Richard HemmingComment